Jonathan Siegrist on Flow, Focus, and (more) 5.15’s

Jonathan Siegrist thrives on long approaches, limit routes, and precise routines—so it's no surprise that 2025 is shaping up to be yet another banner year in the career of one of America’s most consistent and driven sport climbers.

Arco: Redpointing Arbor

This spring, Siegrist and his partner, Shaina Savoy, switched up their usual circuit to spend five weeks in Arco, Italy —a historic climbing hub that they first visited last fall and quickly fell in love with. “We felt like the place was way undervalued,” Siegrist says. “We really liked the climbing style there.”

For Siegrist, the trip had a clear goal: redpoint Arbor (9b), a bouldery, anti-style challenge that pushed him through two months of intense, targeted training during the winter. “I spent all of January and February preparing,” he says, focusing heavily on power and resistance work.

Siegrist ended up clipping the chains on his second-to-last day in Arco after dodging curveballs from inclement weather. “It was stressful to cut it that close to the wire but also really exciting,” he reflects. “I just put a lot into climbing that route, and it was a very hard route for me.”

Wyoming: A Sending Spree

After a month-long reset in Las Vegas and some route development, Siegrist shifted gears for an extended stay in Lander, Wyoming, where he devoted nearly six weeks to the legendary and elusive Wolfpoint crag. There, he reunited with a core crew of crushers, including Cam, Tyler Thompson, BJ Tilden, Matt Pincus, and others, many of whom were trying or sending testpieces in the area. His main goal: Hard Twisted (9a+), a pocketed power-endurance rig that came together early in the trip. “That gave me a lot of motivation,” he says. “I kind of expected to spend a few weeks on it.”

Freed up to explore more lines, Siegrist went on a sending spree: Lion Share (9a), The Hunted (9a), Show Your Teeth (9a), and a handful of 8c and 8c+ routes. He deems it one of his most productive trips in recent memory. “It felt like everything was just working well,” he says. “Those moments are rare.”

Looking Ahead: Slowing Down, Then Speeding Back Up

After the dust settled in Lander, Siegrist made a deliberate choice to slow down. He’s currently in Estes Park for a self-prescribed “re-centering period” of low-pressure climbing and structured training.

“I always take a break in winter, and it helps my spring performance,” he says. “But I realized I wasn’t doing the same thing in the summer, so by the time October rolls around, I’m often just blown out.”

He’ll fill up his cup and bring that renewed energy to Squamish in late August, where he’ll focus on Midnight Way (9a+)—a hybrid of two routes he’s already sent—and consider an attempt on the iconic Dreamcatcher. October brings him back to Arco to take another swing at Trudel Adriatico (9a+) after the route eluded him last year.

After making his way back state-side, Siegrist has big plans on his home turf. “I’ve lined up a bunch of limit projects around the western U.S. that I’ve bolted and want to finally put serious time into. I’m super excited to try hard really close to home.”

Fighting Time: Managing Recovery and Staying Consistent with PhysiVantage

On the cusp of 40, Siegrist makes recovery his top priority. “I still feel super motivated and healthy, but there’s always one or two things nagging,” he says. “When I’m home, I get massage therapy every couple of weeks, but on the road, I really have to manage it myself with self-massage and extra rest days. I just do my best to stay ahead of it.”

PhysiVantage also helps Siegrist keep his foundation strong so he doesn’t have to waste time playing catch-up. 

• Powerplex Protein: “Every day, but especially when I’m in a rush or a heavy training phase; 20 grams of protein, quick and easy.”

• Flow: “After hot hikes to Wolfpoint or 5G, there’s nothing better than ice-cold Flow; literal brain freeze, but it brings you back to life.”

• Vitalium and Magnesium: “I use Vitalium every morning, Magnesium every night. I feel like they both keep me from getting sick and help with recovery. If I forget them on a trip, I’m genuinely bummed.”

Final Thoughts

Whether he’s grinding on steep Wyoming limestone or tapping into classic granite in Squamish, Siegrist continues to illustrate longevity at the elite level well into a third decade of climbing. 

“I think a lot of the age stuff is in your head,” he says. “If you let it influence how you treat your body, it starts to affect performance. I’m trying to find the balance—and still go hard.”