Our Founder

eric horst climbing

Eric Hörst is an international best-selling author, published researcher, renowned climbing coach, and accomplished climber of 40+ years. He is author of Training for Climbing which, along with his seven other books, have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide, including translations to Spanish, French, Polish, Portuguese, Russian, and Persian.

Hörst has written hundreds of magazine articles and appeared on numerous TV broadcasts; his training philosophy, techniques and photos have been featured in countless publications around the world. He has co-authored one research paper: “Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing”, Journal of Behavioral Health and Medicine, 2010, with Dr. Richard Fleming. Hörst maintains the popular Training4Climbing.com site and he broadcasts a monthly climbing science and training podcast available on iTunes, Spotify, and elsewhere (search for Eric Hörst’s Training for Climbing podcast).

A self-professed “climber for life”, Eric remains active at the cliffs in his 50s, traveling widely with his wife, Lisa, and sons, Cameron and Jonathan. Read more >>

Keynote Talks and Research Presentations

  • Youth Training for Climbing and the Importance of Sports Diversification
    USA Climbing Coaches Conference at CWA 2016 (Loveland, CO)
  • Bringing Climbing Science to Coach and Athlete
    International Rock Climbing Researchers Association Congress 2016 (Telluride, CO)
  • Training For Climbing: Then, Now, and the Future…
    Climbing Medicine 2017 (Toronto, Canada)
  • Qualitative Analysis of 2017’s Greatest Ascents and a Proposed Conceptual Model for Maximum Difficulty Sport Climbing and Energy System Requirements
    International Rock Climbing Researchers Association Congress 2018 (Chamonix, France)
  • Keynote Presentation & Age-Appropriate Youth Training of Climbing
    Canada Strong Climbing 2019 (Toronto, Canada)
  • A Comprehensive, "Smart-Training" Approach to Improving Climbing Performance
    Climbing Medicine Canada 2019 (Squamish, Canada)
  • Training and Nutritional Interventions to Improve Tendon Health and Function
    Climbing Medicine Canada 2019 (Squamish, Canada)