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    • POWERPLEX™ Plant Protein
    • Creatine Monohydrate (micronized)
    • "FLOW" - Electrolytes & BCAAs
    • REDUX HP™ - Natural Pain Relief & Recovery
    • Mag-ATP Booster
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    • SEND BLEND COFFEE
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    • "ELEVATE" T-shirt
    • "Sendure X" T-shirt
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    • Water Bottle with Sendure-X Logo
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    • One Move Too Many
    • Rock Climber's Exercise Guide
    • How To Climb 5.12
    • Maximum Climbing
    • Learning To Climb Indoors
    • Climbology
    • FREE Training eBook Download >>
  • TRAINING
    • Finger Force Testing & Training with Force Board
    • Lattice UK - Training Equipment
    • Lattice "MX Edge" Lift Trainer
    • Lattice "MxEdge SWITCH" Training Board
    • Lattice "Triple" Testing & Training Hangboard
    • Lattice "Heavy Roller" Forearm Trainer
    • Lattice "MEGA Bar" Portable Hangboard
    • Lattice "QUAD" Pinch Block
    • Lattice Lifting/Loading Pin
    • Lattice "Mini Bar" for Warm-Up & Training
    • Lattice MICROS Training Holds "6 Pack"
    • Training Articles
    • The Ultimate Guide to Hangboard Training
    • Campus Training Is Connective Tissue Training
    • Daily Finger Training Protocol
    • 7/3 Hangboard Training Protocol
    • Tendon Training Process Cycle
    • Finger Injury Rehab Video (A2/A4 Pulleys)
    • Core Training Video
    • Training Podcasts
    • Podcasts on Tendon Training and Injury Prevention
    • Personalized Nutrition for Peak Climbing Performance
  • SCIENCE
    • Tendon/Ligament Plasticity
    • Tendon Structure & Muscle Matrix
    • Tendon Adaptations
    • About Tendinopathy (Are You Injured?)
    • Nutrition for Stronger Tendons
    • Introducing Supercharged Collagen!
    • Research References
    • Podcasts on Tendon Training and Injury Prevention
    • Latest Collagen Research Impresses!
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    • LATEST COLLAGEN RESEARCH!
    • ANNIE SANDERS MAKES HER DEBUT ON THE ADULT CLIMBING CIRCUIT AT 15 YEARS OLD!
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    • The 8 Superpowers of the Best Climbers
    • CAMERON HÖRST DECLARES "MARTIAL LAW" (5.15A)
    • Daniel Woods Establishes America's First V17
    • Thirty-Six 5.14 Ascents in 7 Months!
    • Three 5.15s in 2020 by Jonathan Siegrist
  • ABOUT US
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A2 Pulley Rehab Video Q & A

January 04, 2020

Finger pulley tweaks are the most common climbing injury. No one is immune—not beginner, intermediate, nor elite climbers.

The prudent response to a "tweak" (minor pain while crimping) is to take a few weeks off from climbing and, after an initial period of total rest (<7 days), to engage in daily rehab that cautiously loads the finger tendons and ligaments to help spur on proper healing.

Daily supplementation with Supercharged Collagen—ideally one hour before rehab—has been shown in research to increase net collagen synthesis in the trained tissues. Unfortunately, many climbers attempt to "climb through" the injury. The common manta I hear from injured climbers (in a mild state of denial) is "I still have 9 healthy fingers, so I'm going to climb on!" Unfortunately, this approach often results in a worse pulley tear that necessitates a longer break from climbing. Learn more about the common causes of pesky finger pulley injuries in T4C podcast #39.

So what can you do to speed healing of an injured finger pulley?

Appropriate daily physical rehab is important, but so is nutrition. In this video from the popular YouTube channel "Geek Climber", Eric Hörst describes the prudent approach to hastening recovery from a common finger pulley tweak.

(Note: A more significant pulley rupture should be examined by a medical professional, and it is likely best treated initially with a pulley splint.)

Maximizing the synergy of training and nutritional interventions requires proper timing of nutrients and workouts. To provide tenocytes with the necessary amino acids to strengthen structural and force transfer proteins, it's recommended to consume the vitamin C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen 30 to 60 minutes before training.

Also critical is the length of recovery between rehab sessions. Tendon cell signaling is optimal from brief, targeted workouts, whereas long, hard comprehensive training sessions make the cells refractory (they begin to “turn off” and become somewhat resistant to adaptation). Studies have shown a tendon cell signaling “reset period” of approximately 6 hours. Consequently, two or three brief rehabilitative sessions separated by at least 6 hours is optimal for tissue repair and recovery.

Recommended by Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance.

tyler nelson c4hp supercharged collagen

RELATED LINKS:

  • Advanced Finger Training for Stronger Tendons and Reduced Injury Risk
  • Daily Finger Training Prehab Protocol for Climbers

Copyright © 2020 Training For Climbing, LLC | All Rights Reserved.
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