One Move Too Many

| /

For sure, rock climbing is a relatively safe sport—like we all tell our moms, it’s safer than driving a car!—yet at the same time climbing is a stressful activity, especially on our fingers, elbows, and shoulders. It’s hard to find an avid climber who has not suffered at least one minor injury, and subtle muscle pain and joint aches are part of many climbers’ lives. If you train rigorously, project V-hard boulders, or push your limit on roped routes, then your risk of injury increases further yet. If you, too, have made one move too many, esteemed German sports medicine doctors Volker Schöffl & Thomas Hochholzer have the answers you need to get healed up and back on the rock as fast as possible. From sore elbows and shoulders to a complete finger pulley rupture (and much more), One Move Too Many is the definitive text on treating and preventing injury—it’s a must-own reference for weekend warriors, pro climbers, coaches & trainers, and any medical professional who treats injured climbers.


Chapter 1 – Anatomical Basics

1.1 Bones, Joints, Ligaments of the Hand and Forearm
1.2 Muscles
1.3 Tendons, Tendon Sheaths, Pulleys
1.4 Upper Arm, Shoulder, Core Muscles
1.5 Physical Requirements
1.6 Physiological Reactions of Bone and Soft Tissue to Stress
Chapter 2 – Injuries
2.1 Skin Damage
2.2 Fractures
2.3 Pulley System Injuries
2.4 Muscle and Tendon Strains and Tears
2.5 Lumbrical Shift Syndrome
2.6 Collateral Ligament and Capsular Injuries
2.7 Irritation of the Finger Nerves
2.8 Injuries from Falls
2.9 Acute Shoulder Injuries
2.10 Fractures of the Lower Extremities
2.11 Knee Meniscus Injuries
2.12 Injuries of the Knee Joint
Chapter 3 – Overuse Injuries
3.1 Tenosynovitis
3.2 Trigger Finger
3.3 Dupuytren’s Contracture
3.4 Ganglion
3.5 Myopathy
3.6 Swelling of the Finger Joints – Capsulitis
3.7 Osteoarthritis of the Finger Joints
3.8 Overuse Bone Reaction – Bone Marrow Edema
3.9 Functional Compartment Syndrome of the Forearm Flexor Muscles
3.10 Overuse Syndromes of the Elbows
3.11 Shoulder Injuries
3.12 Nervous Compression Syndromes
3.13 The Spine
3.14 Overuse Syndromes of the Feet
Chapter 4 – Medical Aspects of Training
4.1 Warm Up
4.2 Basic Endurance Workout
4.3 Rest, Regeneration, Overtraining
4.4 Core Strength
4.5 Artificial Holds
4.6 Holding Positions
Chapter 5  – Stretching and Muscle Development
5.0 What Is Stretching and How it Works
5.1 How to Stretch
5.2 Guidelines for Stretching
5.3 Stretching Exercises
5.4 The Strengthening of Weakened Muscles Groups
Chapter 6 – Rehabilitation After Injuries
6.1 Practical Tips
6.2 Physiotherapy After Pulley Rupture
Chapter 7 – Taping
7.1 Therapeutic Taping for Finger Tendon Pulley Support
7.2 Therapeutic Taping for the P.I.P. Joint
7.3 Therapeutic Taping for the D.I.P.
7.4 Metacarpophalangel Joint
7.5 Buddy Taping
7.6 Taping the Palm
7.7 Taping the Wrist
7.8 Carpophalangel Joint
7.9 Crack Glove
7.10 Taping the Elbows
7.11 Kinesiotaping – K-Tape
Chapter 8 – A Few Points About Nutrition and Climbing
8.1 Expectations for Diet of a Climber
8.2 A Typical Sport Climber’s Diet
8.3 Cereals: A Double-Edged Sword
8.4 Recommendations for Nutrition
8.5 Dietary Supplements
8.6 Pros & Cons of Being a Vegetarian
8.7 Reduction of Body Fat and Optimal Body Fat Mass
8.8 Optimizing Performance Through Weight Loss – Where Are the Limits?
8.9 Reducing Body Fat without Risking Malnutrition
8.10 Disturbance to the Diet and Implications of for Health
8.11 The Right Food for a Competition Climber
8.12 Does the Intake of Allow Performance Enhancing Substances Help?
Chapter 9 – Climbing for Kids and Adolescents
9.1 Basics of Training for Kids and Adolescents
9.2 Special Training Considerations for Kids and Adolescents
9.3 Physical Characteristics of Children and Teenagers
9.4 Injuries and Overuse Syndromes During Growth Periods
9.5 Bouldering
9.6 General Power Training
9.7 Handholds for Children
9.8 Routes
Chapter 10 – Doping
10.1 Doping by Definition
10.2 Banned Substances
10.3 Prohibited Methods
10.4 Limited Use Substance
10.5 Consequences for the Athlete and Physician
Chapter 11 – Competition
11.1 Medical Equipment
11.2 General Safety
11.3 Being the Team Physician