Training For Climbing

The best-selling book on training for climbing—over 180,000 copies sold worldwide!

This 3rd edition of Training for Climbing builds on the international best-selling first  and second editions of this breakthrough text. Drawing on the latest climbing research, Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hörst blends leading-edge sport science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information.

Some of the vital topics explored in detail:

  • Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance—invaluable for nuancing advanced- and elite-level training programs for maximum effectiveness.
  • “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training of the crucial forearm flexor muscles.
  • Five new hangboard training protocols for developing maximum strength and strength-endurance in the finger flexors.
  • Power-endurance training protocols for increasing anaerobic capacity (critical for steep, powerful boulders and routes).
  • How to execute and nuance submaximal (volume) climbing to strengthen the local (forearm) aerobic energy system.
  • How to execute a proper training taper to create a peaking effect for a project redpoint day, roadtrip, or competition.
  • Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output, increased stamina, and pushing your body to a new performance extreme.
  • Daily Undulating Periodization as a novel method of on-season programming (i.e. how to schedule weekday workouts to help, not hurt, performance when you’re climbing hard on the weekends).
  • Does running (and other generalized aerobic training) enhance climbing performance…and, if so, how much aerobic activity is beneficial?
  • How to accelerate recovery on-route, between climbings, and in between training/climbing days.
  • Comprehensive core training—how to build total core strength (not just strong abs)!
  • Stabilizer training to reduce risk of shoulder injury and improve your climbing power.
  • How to accelerate learning of climbing skills—learn the rules for truly effective practice and developing excellent technique.
  • How to control your mind and emotions in stressful situations—learn how to improve focus, manage fear, overcome adversity, and stretch your limits!

This edition of Training for Climbing includes expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Hörst completes his coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book’s 352 pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of its type!

Let Hörst’s passion for climbing, research, training, and his exploration of the boundaries of personal performance help you achieve your personal best!

Customer Reviews

Based on 4 reviews

I had been climbing for about a year and a half when I stumbled across this book. People in the gym and at the crag commented on how all of a sudden I started progressing with my climbing more and more. This is a must have for climbers (and other athletes for that matter) looking to improve their all around climbing. I'm not the strongest reader in the world but this book got me hooked. Each week I look at new chapters, find new pieces of info on how to improve on what I'm doing; it's put everything into perspective. If your new or a veteran climber, I would strongly recommend this book. I try to sell this book when I'm at the gym. I'll even talk to people about tips for training, injury prevention, mental, and nutrition and they'll respond with "was that from the Horst book?" Absolutely. I'd give this book 4 star on mountain project, a classic carriage road test-piece! Thank you so much Eric!

Brilliant book

This book is not only a book for climbers but also a book for people into fitness and health. It teaches improving our minds and body and the connection. I couldn’t be more impressed. Anyone who wants to get in shape Mentally or physically this is a must read.

Book review

This book is awesome, it’s got tons of detailed information about how to take your climbing to the next level not only physically but mentally as well!!

T4C book review, 3rd edition

A resource that contains everything you need and want for improving your climbing (well maybe except those perfect conditions...)
Easy to comprehend due to clear writing that also builds on concepts, linking theory and practice together into training guidance. There is consistency pertaining to details from big to small which smooth the process of managing one's own training and decision making when it comes to workouts, periodization, etc.
Eric knows, and has always written as such, the nuances of training with a ton of personal experience as well as working with other athletes. This resource consistently approaches the practice of training as a cluster of effects rather than the myopic and ineffective 'go hard all the time' approach. With some mental effort and willingness to try the author's approach, the user will enhance their understanding, and ultimately implementation, of climbing training because the clear ties Eric makes between the workouts' goal and the nuts and bolts of what to do. The book is also easily referenced for the quick look-up usage.
Sections on the 'soft skills' (nutrition, mental approach, behavior outside of training, etc) are neither fluffy nor promote a robotic life. The emphasis on simplification and reducing distraction is potent and probably yield gains comparable to 6weeks of physical training.
Thanks Eric!