Climbing Injuries Podcast -- Common Causes, Rehab, and Prevention

The incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and experts alike.

In this podcast, Eric Hörst details the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common. You will learn countermeasures to reduce your injury risk and increase tendon health and finger flexor pulley strength. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then this podcast will be game-changer for you! Be sure to revisit the first three podcasts in this series.

Listen to (or Download) Episode #39 on Climbing Injuries Now!

You can also listen on Apple Podcasts or Spotify by subscribing to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast!

Evidence is that Protein Turnover in Loaded Tendons is Higher than in Muscle!

Many passionate climbers come to suffer from chronic tendon and joint pain, recurrent finger pulley tweaks, elbow tendinosis, shoulder pain, or worse.

Over-enthusiastic training, too few rest days, and chronic protein deficiency are common contributing factors among frequently injured climbers. (Other important factors include age, sex, genetics, loading history, smoking, and medications.) Decreasing collagen quality in the highly stresses tissues (red line) sets the stage for injury. This manifests in some runners as Plantar fasciitis and stress fractures, whereas in climbers it commonly reveals as elbow tendinosis and finger pulley tweaks. 

Conversely, seldom injured climbers engage in appropriate high-intensity training followed by sufficient rest and low-load training, while consuming adequate protein to support net collagen synthesis and long-term remodeling. These climbers develop stronger tendons season over season, and they have a good chance to advance their climbing ability.

The bottom line: It's essential to recognize the ongoing battle of collagen breakdown versus collagen synthesis in the most highly stresses connective tissues (fingers, arms, shoulders, torso, and knees). As shown in the diagram below, you can tip the scales in your favor (to "net synthesis") by optimizing your training load, volume, rest, and daily protein intake.

Consuming a nutritious diet is the lynchpin of the process and, in particular, it's essential to consume 0.7 to 1.0 grams of protein per pound of body weight per day. (For the typical 160-pound climber, then, the daily protein goal is 112 to 160 grams.)

The primary building blocks of connective tissues are the collagen-specific amino acids (glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline) found in highest amounts in animal meat, bone broth, and collagen supplements. Finding them in plant sources is difficult, however, and so athletes who consume little or no meat are more likely to be deficient in these collagen-specific amino acids. Might this predispose plant-based athletes to a higher rate of connective tissue injuries? (Anecdotal evidence says "yes".)

The Value of Supplemental Protein

Hard-training strength-to-weight ratio athletes, wanting to reduce injury risk and accelerate recovery, may benefit from consuming supplement protein in order to meet their daily protein requirement. PhysiVāntage Weapons-Grade Whey and plant-based Powerplex Complex provide an excellent amino acid spectrum for accelerating muscle recovery and strength gain.

As for connective tissue remodeling and recovery, Supercharged Collagen is the proven solution according to dozens of pro climbers and thousands of PhysiVāntage customers who use it. Daily consumption—ideally pre-workout—can be remarkably effective at supporting net-positive collagen synthesis. You can read the latest research on collagen supplementation here >>

If you'd like to experience the PhysiVāntage, click here to save 10% on your performance nutrition or use checkout code: SAVE10.