Competition Tips from Annie Sanders, Seoul World Cup Bouldering Gold Medalist!

Annie Sanders Wins Her First World Cup Bouldering Gold! 

What routine changes and/or special preparations (mental and physical) did you do this year leading up to this incredible season?

After placing 3rd in the Innsbruck World Cup, I was more motivated than ever to go back home and keep training. Since I didn't have the pressure/stress of making the Olympics anymore, I felt a lot more relaxed both physically and mentally...and that allowed me to push myself more.

The biggest routine change I made was in my training, I went from training 4-6 hours a day to around 7-10 hours a day. 

How did it feel to win your first World Cup Gold Medal?

Winning Gold feels pretty surreal--I'm honestly still in shock. Winning a World Cup has been one of my lifelong goals ever since I started competing, and achieving that goal wasn't something I expected could happen this soon. I'm not usually an emotional person, but when I found out that I had won, I could not help but tear up.

What stood out to you most during this comp? Your favorite problem...or best "try hard" moment?

Actually, I enjoyed all of the boulders! On Final's boulder #1, my skin was already thin from the previous rounds, so I was pretty hesitant to pull on the textured holds. I ended up breaking the beta and this left me psyched to take on the next boulder. 

On boulder #2, I took quite a few tries to stick the first move, and by then I didn't have much time left to figure out the finish. Since most of the girls were topping that boulder, I didn't think I had a chance to podium anymore. Knowing this, I decided to just try and enjoy the rest of the round, not caring about the results. 

Boulder #3 was a slab, which I would consider to be one of my strengths, and topping this boulder was for sure one of the highlights of the round. The crowd was electric when I matched the finishing hold. 

After this top, I was insanely psyched going into boulder #4...and I was still not paying any attention to the result. I was slightly hesitant on the first move, but once I committed to the jump it wasn't too bad. I climbed my way to a flash, not having a clue that this top would lead to my first World Cup win. Quite a few tears were shed when I found out...realizing that all the blood, sweat, and tears I put into my training had paid off!

What goals (comp and outdoor climbing) do you have for next year?

I have many goals for both this year and next year. I'm planning on going to Red River Gorge during Thanksgiving break since I still have quite a few projects I would like to get back on. I would also love to do some outdoor bouldering, but I'm not sure when that will happen. 

My main focus will remian on competition climbing, however, so winter will be full of intense training in preparation for the next season. I still have many things to work on, and I'm excited to keep working hard and improving. 

What are your top tips for those looking to pursue comp climbing? 

One of the most important aspects of comp climbing is making sure that you're enjoying it. Everyone progresses at their own pace, so try not to compare yourself to others...and just enjoy the process. Comp climbing also requires a lot of time and dedication, so try to find what works for you and stay consistent with your training.

What's your typical warm-up ahead of a bouldering comp....compared to before a lead climbing comp?

Bouldering warm-up:

I'm pretty much warmed up and ready around 20-30 minutes before I go out climb Boulder #1.

Lead climbing warm-up:

- 20 minutes stretching
- a few hangs to warm up my fingers
- easy boulders
- long boulders (around 10 moves)
- medium pump (I don't like to get too pumped in iso because i know I do not recover very well after a big pump)
- short hard boulders

What's your comp day diet like? What's your typical breakfast...and what about food/drink before or during the comp?

Breakfast: Oatmeal or yogurt with fruit. Also a serving of PhysiVāntage Weapons Grade Whey protein.

Lunch: Carbs (sweet potato/rice), Protein (chicken breast/salmon/tuna)

Dinner: My dinner is pretty similar to my lunch with protein and carbs (a little more protein for recovery)

• My favorite meal the night before a comp is creamy mushroom pasta.
• I’m not super strict with my diet while I'm traveling. If my team has dinner together, I will usually join them. When in Korea, we ate a lot of Kimchi!

What's your mindset going into semis and finals? Any particular thought process to put you in better head space for climbing your best?

I try not to put too much pressure on myself. My main focus is on enjoying the boulders/routes during each comp. When I keep this mindset, it allows me to perform my best.

I honestly don't think much before I climb, maybe that's why I'm usually in a pretty good headspace (I've always been like this).

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Annie's favorite PhysiVāntage

PhysiVāntage plays a big role in my diet, I use various products throughout the day. In the morning, I like to put a scoop of WG Whey Protein in my oatmeal because it's an easy way to consume a high amount of protein. I also take Crush and Vitalium around this time. Throughout the day, I like to consume both Sendure-X and Flow, sometimes even mixing them together--it's a pretty good performance "stack"!